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There & Back |
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| Spy City: Espionage has long history in D.C. |
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| By [redacted], Times Staff Writer |
Friday, July 31, 2009 |
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WASHINGTON — 4:45: Arrived at The Hotel George on E Street. Checked into room [redacted]. Received mission: To learn as much about city’s espionage history as possible within 24 hours. Video
6:15 p.m. After a stop at [redacted] vegan bakery, which has nothing to do with espionage but a lot to do with delicious cupcakes, had a [redacted] pale ale at Chadwicke’s on K Street in Georgetown.
Info: This pub is the site where a CIA mole, Aldrich Ames, sold secrets to his Soviet contact June 13, 1985, according to the International Spy Museum’s Spy City Tours. As a result, at least 10 U.S. spies were executed in the U.S.S.R., and Ames was sentenced to life in prison.
6:50 p.m.: Walked by Martin’s Tavern, but chose not to go in for dinner, as the traditional British fare doesn’t agree with my vegan diet.
Info: The bar was popular among spies, including Duncan Lee, who worked for the Office of Strategic Services, which was the precursor to the CIA, and Elizabeth Bentley, who uncovered Soviet moles in the U.S., according to Spy City Tours.
6:55 p.m.: What was once an upscale restaurant is now a Five Guys. Probably not so much a hangout for spies these days, but you never know.
Info: The restaurant used to be Au Pied de Cochon, where high-ranking Soviet defector Vitaly Yurchenko, went to eat with his CIA guard. He slipped away, went to the Soviet Embassy and re-defected, according to Spy City Tours.
7:25 p.m. Loitered in front of a really sweet house in an upscale neighborhood. Contemplated career change.
Info: The house used to belong to William “Wild Bill” Donovan, the founder of the OSS. It also used to belong to newspaper publisher Katharine Graham, of the Washington Post, who was in charged of the paper when it published the Watergate scandal. Decided I either need to found a spy agency or publish a major metropolitan newspaper if I ever want to move out of my one-bedroom apartment on [redacted].
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8:15 p.m. Had dinner at [redacted]. Bruschetta was good. [Redacted] roasted vegetables need some work.
9:25 p.m.: Went back to the hotel to read about spy history and prepare for the International Spy Museum visit.
Noon: Started tour of International Spy Museum, located on F Street. Exhibits began with ins and outs of being a spy: surveillance, disguise, gadgets, [redacted]. Learned a lot of that from TV show “Burn Notice.”
12:45 p.m.: Learned about the history of spies. Ninjas the best, Alexander the Great good, spies at royal courts OK but would have benefitted from throwing stars.
1 p.m.: Noticed only one room devoted to female spies, and focusing mostly on Mata Hari, who was a terrible example of a female spy. Don’t put yourself out on covering female spies, spy museum.
1:25 p.m.: WWII espionage display focused mostly on breaking of German code machine Enigma. Also, I wouldn’t want to be a spy behind enemy lines.
1:35: Ah, the Cold War. The golden age of the spy, complete with listening devices more or less blanketing D.C. and Moscow, moles in U.S. and U.S.S.R. governments and stupid spy movies starring [redacted]. Imagined the halcyon days when lipstick pistols and listening devices in teeth seemed like good ideas.
1:50 p.m.: The modern spy. [Redacted]
2 p.m.: Stared in disgust at plethora of spy merchandise in gift store. Aren’t these people supposed to be under cover? [redacted]
Reach [redacted] at 410-857-7892 or sara.smith@carrollcountytimes.com
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